WOMAN OF THE MONTH - KAT JUNGNICKEL

How did you start researching and reconstructing historic clothing inventions?

“I’m a Reader in Sociology at Goldsmiths, University of London and I’ve been researching clothing inventions in global patent archives for almost a decade. My last project – Bikes & Bloomers – explored how Victorian women invented radical new forms of cycle wear to ride their bicycles during the cycle craze that swept the country in the 1890s. They had to overcome not only social issues (parts of society were shocked by the sight of “New Women” engaging in what was seen as a masculine activity) and sartorial problems (conventional clothing styles were uncomfortable and dangerous to cycle in). I became particularly interested in their inventive solutions in the form of convertible designs which feature all kinds of secret technologies that raise material up and out of the way of the moving machinery. Unable to find existing garments, my team of sewing social scientists and I remade a collection of convertible inventions to study them.”

“I’m now working on a larger project called Politics of Patents (POP for short) funded by the European Research Council. My team and I are researching, reconstructing, and reimagining 200 years of clothing inventions to explore changing ideas around citizenship, gender, and public space. Amongst a range of themes, we’ve been expanding our research into sport and activewear. These include inventions for mountain climbing, swimming, tobogganing, flying, cycling and much more. And many of these designs are not only convertible, but also combinable, multiple, reversible, and hidden. As a sociologist, I am constantly struck by how many historical issues being addressed by these inventors a hundred years ago are still relevant. I’m also inspired by how many of their ingenious design ideas could still be of use today.”

Why do you use Dashing fabrics?

“I study clothing inventors from the past as they operated on the cutting edge of social and political change, building on the past to make claims on the present and imagine different futures. Their patents reveal insights into what concerned them enough to want to make a difference. They tell us about their lives, problems and solutions and they provide step-by-step instructions to replicate their idea. They were committed to using all kinds of innovative technologies – sewing machines, wools, weaves, waterproofing, fixings, and fastenings. So, we follow in their footsteps in our reconstructions and speculatively sew their inventions using contemporary machines and a range of materials. Dashing Tweeds is a pleasure to work with, flexible yet hardwearing and easy to mend and maintain. We recently collaborated with The Adventure Syndicate and Mór Diversity who put our inventions to the test in the Scottish hills doing lots of sports in all the weathers (see the film here). The costumes not only survived but they looked great even after a tough workout. And because our aim is to render visible lesser-known inventors and draw attention to their inventions, we use the reflective qualities of Dashing Tweeds Raver Wave collection to make their innovations really POP out.”

What does style mean to you?

“Style to the inventors I study was one of many tactics they used to fit into society and enjoy the rights and privileges that came with it, while also concealing their intentions to resist, subvert or re-negotiate conventions that held them back. A stylish outfit enabled them to look on the surface like they were wearing clothing appropriate for their social standing or activity. Yet, underneath, hidden in the seams and stitches, disguised in waistbands and hems, were secret technologies designed to transform garments, and their wearers, into something entirely different. A stylish outfit enables us to become, or express something new. These stylish convertible, multiple, reversible, and hidden inventions enabled wearers to do even more!”