Our Round Up: Pitti Uomo
You may have heard of, or seen photos of the biannual menswear shows in Florence over the years. It’s known as the natural strutting ground of the peacock man, and although this is undeniably true it’s also a serious trade show with some of the world’s best brands showing their new designs. Plenty of buyers come to place orders for shops around the world and companies big and small go there to speak to excellent manufacturers.
I find it a useful place to visit not only for immediate business but also to gauge the zeitgeist of mens fashion.
Last week was the 97th show with a clear blue sky but enough chill in the air to necessitate several layers of all important clothes. I found the atmosphere as ebullient as ever as I wondered around the area housed within the impressively fortified Fortezza de Basso with it’s distinctive hemispherical red carved stones. Within the walls is a maze of many buildings each with a theme such as Futuro Maschile or Scandinavian Manifesto.
Navigating the fair is an art in itself with dozens of bloggers and photographers circling the main square looking for fresh pray. As flattering as it is to be stopped and papped you certainly don’t want to be seen to be a desperate peacock seeking attention by preening yourself whilst perched on the walls or stairs.
In these hard times for British retail I felt there was a good atmosphere of support amongst the companies showing in the UK section on the ground floor, and many of them such as Edward Green and our glove suppliers Chester Jefferies were nicely busy.
In general I noticed a feeling of authentic integrity prevailing amongst the clothing brands showing, with an openness to the origin of materials and designs, there was a lot less of the hype that has been evident in past years. Some brands were using this as a sustainable angle showing that their clothing was made from recycled materials, a couple of interesting companies were recycling cashmere by shredding old jumpers and re-spinning yarns before knitting new jumpers and socks and others were showing how right on they were by using waste plastics.
Outside the exhibitions the flâneurs peacocked as usual. The Italian menswear professionals with their too short jackets, narrow trousers and beards were starting to look rather old hat whilst several young hunks were revelling in the gender fluid with handbags, fur stoles and the odd earring.
Tweed was very evident this season with many raglan cut herringbone coats on display and colourful checks looking fresh compared to the cigar smoking fogeys squeezed between waistcoats and stiff collars.
All in all a classic season showing that menswear has a lot to offer at the moment with potential for more colour, varied silhouettes and fresh developments in the future.
