Jonathan Root and Chris Ruocco
Dashing Tweeds brings people together and sparks creative conversation. The latest case in point is the delightful afternoon I spent with legendary tailor Chris Ruocco and Jonathan Root.
Jonathan is a fellow photographer, we first met back in the day when London was abuzz with magazines and photographers. Twenty four hour processing labs were a focal point for snappers waiting to ensure that their film was correctly exposed and another job would be awarded. The East End was a hive of activity; warehouse conversions flashed with high voltage strobe lights favoured by studio photographers and the streets crackled with the radios of rapid cycle couriers.
Jonathan assisted photographer Carrie Branovan before embarking on a career as a beauty and portrait photographer for magazines such as Tatler and Harpers. With an eye for the latest look Jonathan would haggle at Hyper Hyper, buying the threads to turn heads at Kinky Gerlinky or The Wag Club.
Cars are another passion for Jonathan. He’s regularly drives his faithful 1951 Jowett Jupiter and a few years ago remortgaged his studio to buy some impressive playboy wheels; a bright green gull-winged De Tomaso Mangusta. Recently Jonathan could not resist the chance to pick up a wonderful 1974 Rolls Royce Corniche to add to his collection, he leapt on a plane to Luxembourg and snapped it up.
Once you own such a car you have to dress the part. The nineteen seventies were a super fun time for menswear. Savile Row was straddling the line between the conservative and the wildly fashionable. Tommy Nutter was doing roaring trade, dressing the stars of the day in his signature cut with extra wide lapels and tapered waists whilst Mr Fish next door in Clifford Street was peddling the most flamboyant shirts and ties imaginable. Jonathan is lucky enough to own some wonderful vintage Mr Fish shirts and ties, however one needs to wear slightly more than that when stepping out of a Rolls. So always with a keen eye for the marvellous, Jonathan saw our new Disco Stripe cloth design and knew he had to have it to complete the look.
Chris Ruocco, is a legendary tailor, not only in Kentish town where he has worked since 1952 but also in the celebrity world of pop stars. Signed black and white photos cover his shop walls and are a testament to his part in music history. Everyone from George Michael to Boy George, Suggs and Bananarama have been suited by him. Style leaders such as Chris Sullivan, a luminary of the London club scene in the 70s and 80’s used to drop by with friends and help style a look to turn heads.
Nothing seems to faze Chris, he’s a true bespoke tailor with all the skills needed to make a client’s sartorial dreams come true. He learned the art of tailoring as a youngster helping his uncle in the very same shop. A man of fathomless energy he was a professional boxer in his late teens, a trumpet playing band leader, a vintage dealer, a runner and is still a stalwart of the Hampstead pond swimming scene.
Chatting with him in his snug workshop it’s hard to believe he’s in his 80’s. Chris not only flows with energy but also with generosity and a zest for life. Whilst chatting, one local dropped by wanting help with the hem of his daughter’s Easter parade outfit and another wild chap stopped to ask for a couple of stitches to prolong the life of the uppers on his trainers. All the while, Chris regaled us with stories of impulsive nights out and his early mohair mod suits whilst keeping an eye on the time when his piano teacher would turn up. I then noticed an upright tucked in the corner surrounded by suits awaiting collection.
Chris was more than happy to tailor exactly what Jonathan wanted. He found our cloth a pleasure to work with and knew exactly what was needed to create a 70’s inspired cut suitable for cruising the Corniche around town. The fact that Chris owns a couple of Royces himself probably helps. Having been tailoring for so many years Chris has seen it all before. The super wide peak lapels on the coat, with a matching waistcoat and pocket watch fob buttonhole are second nature to Chris. He takes it all in his stride, cutting with a natural flair that can be seen in the elegant kick of the trousers.
It comes as no surprise that Jonathan is absolutely delighted with his new suit. The sheer joy of choosing unique cloth and having a master tailor conjure a fresh take on a classic look from the dandy era is what it’s all about. Then being able to spread the love by wearing the new whistle out and about is, as Madness would say, “One Step Beyond”.