PODCAST: WELL DRESSED DAD

This week’s guest is Guy Hills, bon vivant and founder of Dashing Tweeds, makers of innovative tweed and dashing outfits thereof. We get into the joy of tailoring, menswear history, why tweed is a top technical fabric, old money fashion, tweed runs, why tailored tweed is the hard drug of garments and more. Oh, and what a true garmsman does when your wife demands you cover your cycling tweed with a reflective vest.

You can find Dashing Tweeds on the web here and on Instagram as @dashingtweeds

Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmology

Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.

Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

PODCAST: MENSWEAR STYLE

Fashion photographer Guy Hills launched British brand Dashing Tweeds in 2006 with the talented woven textiles designer Kirsty McDougall. Guy was looking to create a British high quality modern tweed that could be worn in the city. His passion was to combine traditional sportswear with new designs and technical yarns. Guy and Kirsty set up their weave design studio in East London, using the best mills in the country to weave their luxury woven designs. With the cloths instant success amongst Savile Row tailors, the Dashing Tweeds Flagship store opened in 2014 in Mayfair, and then moved to Marylebone in 2018. 

Dashing Tweeds is modernising the cloth by working with technical yarns in combination with wools. They are bringing tweed to town as more people now live in the city and by combining modern sportswear with the traditional, they are creating a whole new concept in tailored wear. They have worked on numerous joint projects and collaborations with brands such as Pharrell Williams’ Billionaires Boys Club, Fred Perry, Box Fresh, Hudson Shoes and most recently with Nike Labs in Shoreditch who are offering bespoke Air Force 1s.

In this episode of the MenswearStyle Podcast we interview Guy Hills, Founder of fabrics and tailoring business Dashing Tweeds about his background in fashion photography and the founding story of his brand. Peter Brooker and Guy talk about the origins of tweed, urban and fashion-orientated focus, the different methods of manufacturing tweed, collaborating with Converse, tailoring through the decades, educating men on style, and working with costume designers.

Listen to the podcast here:

https://podcast.menswearstyle.co.uk/1068124/12522396-guy-hills-founder-of-dashing-tweeds-fabrics-and-tailoring

Or read the transcript here.

DASHING INTERVIEWS: Kristyna Toms

Last year we had the privilege of getting to know Kristyna Toms while she interned with us. Kristyna studied a BA in Fashion Design and Business Studies at Brighton University and during her sandwich year we were lucky enough to have her help us in our store and design studio.

Due to the summer lockdown, Kristyna’s final collection was not able to be fully appreciated, so we thought it would be interesting to share images and an interview with you. We hope you will find this inspiring. 

Tell us about your yourself and your studies?

Before finishing college in Czech Republic, I found that fashion design and sewing was my passion. I had always liked the idea of living in the UK, my college in Prague was under British curriculum so I thought it would make acclimatising into the culture easier and I have always been attracted to British fashion brands. I applied to study in the UK and ended up going to the University of Brighton –  their course programme was very hands on but at the same time teaches the business side of fashion, which is really useful for young designers.  

I am proud to say that during my studies I developed some strong design and technical skills, my endless patience proved to be a good plus when I found out I wanted to specialise in tailoring and let details dominate my creations. 

I enjoyed my time at university, but I mainly appreciated being exposed to industry during my internship year. I believe this really shaped me as a person and a designer, working with Dashing Tweeds was the most valuable experience from that whole year! 

Tell us about your collection?

The collection named ‘Eastern Bloc’ is an exploration of the Czechoslovak culture when it was under the Communist regime in the late 1970s – all essential goods including fabrics and clothing were scarce and designers were required to find inventive ways to make clothes out of the little available. They managed to do so in an unconventional way, over-exaggerating trends from outside of the Eastern Bloc, always combining patterned and textured fabrics which were produced by the local and at the time famous textile industry. 

Overall, the late 1970s was a very monotone period in the country, characterised by the grey eroding stone walls of the capital Prague juxtaposed with the bright, uniform colour palette of beige, green, brown, blue and red of the people’s fashion, this perfectly depicted the mood back then – sad and humble. Sourcing inspiration from authentic Czechoslovak fashion magazines, I designed a tailored collection where the key features included modularity, uniformity, functionality and high attention to detail, with elements having been exaggerated in its amount and proportion. 

Tell us about the cloth you used?

I sourced fabrics both the Czech Republic and the UK, they were both authentic looking and vibrant such as Gibbous and Hudson from Dashing Tweeds, and styling it with my personal approach resulted in a collection which reflects both the beautiful and the ugly of totalitarianism.

I am really interested in sustainable materials and manufacturing and so I was trying to source my fabrics with as much of a sustainable approach as possible, partially using dead stock materials or natural materials which are responsibly made. I love Dashing Tweeds fabrics for their high quality, I know they are responsibly manufactured and where the yarns come from.

I love the Dashing Tweeds fabrics because they are distinctive in the textiles market, different from other woollen and suiting offerings. Within the UK I find it really hard to find colourful and patterned suiting fabrics. The Dashing Tweeds I chose perfectly fitted in with the theme of 1970s Czechoslovakia of my graduate collection!

What do you plan to do next?

Now after graduating the whole fashion industry has slowed down due to the pandemic so I have decided to focus on experimenting a bit more with my aesthetics, I’m also now interested to explore textile design and manufacture. For the moment I am based in Prague, and in the coming months I am planning to collaborate with my artistic friends here who create different branches of the arts. We have such a big tradition of crafts and at the moment there are so many talented young designers who are exploring them; I’m excited to work on projects with those from my close circle.

We hope you enjoyed learning more about Kristyna’s collection. To find out more or ask any questions, do get in contact with her; kristyna.toms@outlook.cz or follow her instagram account; @kristynatoms_.

Also to let you know our retail store is now closed due to UK Government guidelines, but our online store is still processing orders daily and we are offering free shipping on all website orders during lockdown.

WINTER COATS

It’s that time again, the clocks have gone back, leaves are dropping and birds are on the move. The joy of living in a temperate climate is change. Out with the old and in with the new, or as I like to think, pass on the old to someone deserving and treat yourself to the new.

As the nights draw in, rich colours and sumptuous cloths are needed to cheer us up, that and plenty of mulled wine. Life is a little limited at the moment but going for a jolly walk in a new coat will lighten your mood no end. The distance of the stroll is up to you but we can help with the length of your coat. In fact, when it comes to a coat length is the single most important factor.

I like to categorise coats into three types depending on their drop. Firstly you have the shorter reefer or field type coats, followed by the classic town or even duffle coat length and finally the sweeping trench or great coat.

Each type of coat is very distinctive and has their own merits, I would go so far as to say that ideally you need all three in your wardrobe for various occasions and activities. Formality increases with length and this helps with the styling as well. A beautiful long coat reaching to your lower calf is always going to look good and keep your whole body warm. They never go out of fashion and can be styled in a fabulously chic way for nights to the opera (I can’t wait) or in a film noir trench style, single or double breasted with sleek slanted pockets and perhaps peaked lapels. There is a drama to a long coat and sweeping along the pavements in a great coat lets your imagination run wild; any passer by could be a silent assassin, or perhaps I’ve been dwelling on the news too much recently…

I favour a classic, mid length coat due to their versatility, one that rests just below your knees. You used to see these around the city in a fawn covert coat style or in dark wools with contrast collars. With our warmer winters and more casual times they often replace a jacket and look good with just a jumper underneath. I love my new coat in our Swale cloth, styled with epaulettes it has a military nod of discernment and it’s bold optimistic design is a real perk.

Shorter coats are useful for the active man, in the navy officers wore longer coats whilst the younger boys climbing masts to reef (tie down) the sails wore shorter coats, hence the reefer coat. They do look very smart and a while ago we designed a modern version of the classic for our shop. These have all sold but we are able to tailor a version of a classic short double breasted coat for you and in a cloth such as our navy Royal Jura it would look top notch.

Although we originally started Dashing Tweeds to give men a greater choice of fabrics we have successfully been moving into womenswear tailoring over the last year or so. Women have been spoilt for choice when it come to fabrics available on the high street but in terms of tailoring, sizes and shapes are often limited.

Having clothing made specifically for you has many advantages, you can choose exactly the length and style you like, there are hundreds of buttons and linings to choose from and I think most importantly it’s more environmentally friendly; the waste large brands create due to excessive sampling and production is huge. It’s reported that Burberry alone burnt £90 million pounds of unsold stock over the last few years.

Coats are such great investment pieces and can last many years. Our black Donegal design as seen above is a great example of a timeless coat. Predominantly black with flecks of primary neps the pure Merino wool goes with everything day and night. This coat features a flowing panelled back and an elegant shawl collar, but the joy of our tailoring is you can have anything you like.

To book a made to measure appointment, pop in store before we close for lockdown today, or we can do a video consultation, do get in contact. Production takes around 6 weeks, so orders placed this week are coming in mid December.

THE ZOOM JACKET

Recently we’ve all been forced to arrange meetings in one of the most discomforting of all locations; cyberspace. Half your senses are removed, the lighting is often horrible, there is no atmosphere and moreover you are often joined by a wilting spectre of yourself in the corner. Real life is about a series of rendezvous for which we prepare, in fact much or our childhood is focused on learning what to wear when; you soon gather that going to school in pyjamas is not allowed, but now there are a new set of rules to learn.

I used to always take my cub scout motto of ‘be prepared’ to heart and travel with a dinner suit; you never know when a passing ambassador may extend an invitation to a ball.

One of the things I enjoy most about clothing is their specialisation, from night wear to running gear to morning dress, lounge suit, riding breeches, cocktail dress and evening wear, ones average day could involve so many pleasing changes if life would only slow down to the appropriate speed of a period drama.

Alas, the overclocking of silicon chips has taken away so much richness from our daily habits, forcing a blandness of attire to be adopted as people run to maintain stasis on the slope of success.

But do not be disheartened, at Dashing Tweeds we have ways of cheering you and others up. Wearing a beautiful jacket, tailored to fit, in sustainable life affirming wool is a huge pleasure, and if you follow Coco Chanel’s edict that ‘being well dressed is a beautiful form of politeness’ then you can’t go too wrong when arranging meetings over any medium.

We are now tailoring very comfortable, easy draping unlined jackets ideal for looking good on a zoom call. The secret is to feel at ease yet look like you care. That and raising the camera on your computer, sitting by soft window or side light and tidying your room will all help transform your mirrored zoom spectre to something more appealing. 

Our unlined ‘Zoom Jackets’ work really well in our winter weight tweeds that maintain their shape without the need for stiff canvassing. Our Motley soft donegal cloth works very well as does our new Rush lambswool tweed or our flamboyant Moor design. We have many colours in stock so do email me and I’ll be more than happy to post you swatches.

To book a made to measure appointment either in store or via a video consultation, do get in contact.

GUY@DASHINGTWEEDS.CO.UK HOLLY@DASHINGTWEEDS.CO.UK

Dashing’s New Cloth Collection

This coming autumn season we are seeking comfort in one of the most sumptuous of tweeds, soft Donegals. This new collection is designed in our London studio and  woven in Scotland using fine Merino yarns spun in Ireland.

 

At Dashing Tweeds we are always interested in experimenting with colour, Donegal yarns with their famous nepps of different coloured wools are a great starting point and as a first for us we have even created our own yarn. Known as the Motley design this initially appears to be black with neps of primary yellow, red and blue but on closer inspection a whole plethora of colours can be seen.

As colour is the focus we have used classic weave structures this season, working with herringbones and twills to produce a very wearable collection.

Our Ochre, Claretand Lapis Herringbone designs have a pleasing scale and work well for jackets and coats. Herringbones are classic designs which never go out of fashion so anything made up in these will be a great investment. At around 14oz (430g) they are light enough to wear now that autumn days are mild but warm enough for winter nights.

Our Gallant Checkis the most exuberant design, fabulously fun in a large scale with over checks in yellow, green and red. This design captures the joy we try to bring to our fabrics and will put a smile on anyones face.

To RSVP to our private view of our latest cloth collections on the 18th September click here or stop by 47 Dorset Street, Marylebone whenever you’re in the area.

Please don’t hesitate to get in contact if you have any questions or would like us to reserve you some of our latest cloth collection. Drop us a line at Guy@DashingTweeds.co.uk.

All the very best,

The Dashing Team

 

 

DASHING MEN: Hans Witteveen

When it comes to all round action then Hans is your man. Whether speed skating frozen canals in the Netherlands, cycling the alps, tearing up a tennis court or simply busting moves on the dance floor Hans is there with debonair aplomb.

A partner of law firm Stibbe and Head of the London practice, I am lucky enough to have Hans as my neighbour in Primrose Hill, with his film making wife and two teenage daughters he’s also a consummate host and a good cook.

Growing up in Amsterdam Hans started playing tennis almost as soon as he could walk and would also regularly train on the 400m skating tracks that are popular in the country. During the now rare cold winters the whole country becomes enthralled by the famous Elfstedentocht tour of eleven historic cities in the Friesland district. The tour stretches 120 miles along frozen canals, lakes and rivers and Hans was lucky to be able to participate and finish in the last race of 1997.

 

All this action has honed Hans’ physique into a proportion that looks excellent in a tailored suit. Earlier in life whilst working in his New York office Hans found the boxy American suits were not to his taste and favoured the more fitted silhouettes of Italian and particularly English tailoring. Dressing well for work is essential but the pleasure for Hans is when he can wear a great fitting suit for the shear pleasure of it. Starting with designer pieces from INA NYC in his younger days Hans is excited to have now discovered Dashing. His personal taste is for a close fitting well tailored suit that drapes perfectly, he prefers his trousers to hang just short of this shoes with no break, a look that gives sharp clean lines.

For sheer exuberant pleasure Hans loves his double breasted suit in the Dashing Stripe and is never short of compliments when donning it for a night out. The cut is derived from a famous suit tailored by Mr Fish in 1968 and now on display at the V&A museum. In the mid sixties Mr Fish had a renowned shop in Clifford Street just off Savile Row and as well as inventing the kipper tie he tailored for all the stars of the time from Mick Jagger to Peter Sellers.

Hans also loves the wit of his suit in the Clerkenwell Stripe a navy worsted with a boucle pinstripe. As a lawyer, friends are initially not surprised to see Hans sporting a pinstripe suit but as they get closer it becomes clear that the textured looped yarns of the stripe are altogether more humorous than expected and place Hans in a whole new light.

For those who don’t already know, be sure to drop by Dashing before the 31st August to shop our summer sale, with 30% off RTW, 20% off cloth and 10% off made to measure.

All the very best,

The Dashing Team

 

 

 

 

 

 

Long Live Fashion

Sustainability is the key nowadays. We have long been told that the rate at which we are plundering Earth’s resources and generating waste cannot continue, only now is this beginning to sink in. We need a radical rethink of the way we consume everything if we are to thrive or even survive; a good start is to think about our clothing. As naked apes we find clothing essential, not only does it protect us from the elements, but as is the case with so many animals, its use within society as a display for pecking order and mating rituals is paramount.

Sustainability in general should be a major concern of yours and as awareness grows of all others around you. Displaying your empathy to the cause by wearing clothing made in a sustainable way will not only make you feel better but also actively disclose your conviction to others. This will without doubt make you a more attractive person in their eyes and greatly increase the fulfilment required by your dress, especially where mating is concerned.

So how to be sustainable? Transparency within brands is now more commonplace elucidating the whole making journey of a garment but this can quickly become a tangled web. I find it easier to stick to the simple rule of quality over quantity. Buying fewer clothes and looking after them well is a good start. For clothing to last it has to be made well in a good quality yarn. Wool is tough to beat when it comes to longevity and sustainability, improvements in cross breeding sheep has lead to beautifully soft wearable fabrics and sheep feeding on natural grassland are entirely in balance with nature.

Repairing clothes is only possible if they are of a certain quality, cheap cotton garments made at a huge cost to the environment, especially where water is concerned, seem to spontaneously disintegrate in one go making mending impossible. If your favourite quality outfit develops a hole then they are easy to mend. Darning is an age old skill that is currently in the midst of a revival and it needn’t be done as neatly as possible. Prince Charles was sporting an obvious patch to his Anderson and Sheppard jacket a while back, proud to be extending the life of an old favourite. Indeed visible mending especially on wool garments has become an even more obvious sign of ones personal attitude to sustainability.

The Japanese, have made a whole art of patching with their Boro fabrics constructed almost entirely of mended rags but you needn’t go this far. A classic elbow patch to extend the life of a jacket could be all you need to increase your clothing sustainability. When things go beyond repair you know where to come for garments that will not only last for many years but become firm friends on the journey to a sustainable life.

 

Going Short!

One often reads that economics effects the amount of leg you see or visa versa. The so called skirt length theory suggestS that the observation of hem lines is a good indicator of market direction with traders looking forward to a bull market as they spot more knees. Now in our times of equality, its high time that men get their knees out in the open and perhaps the economy will start picking up. There may be several years of more data to collect but signs are that shorts are on the up.

 

Short suits for work, once a novelty rarely spotted outside of Sydney or outposts of the empire are now no longer to be scoffed at, at least outside of the square mile. As global warming kicks in shorts will be on the rise. Needless to say, shorts are the garment of choice for summer holidays with the purchase of a pair imparting one with an almost immediate air of tranquility.

 

Enjoyment is an important ethos of Dashing Tweeds, our fabrics are designed with a wit that is often missing in menswear. The colourful nature of our sophisticated fine Merino cloths make for fabulous shorts and with my preferred cut, slightly wider with a turn up just at the top of the knee you can tell that good times are ahead.

To order a pair drop us a line to Holly@DashingTweeds.co.uk or come by the shop to be measured up. We have a great choice of short suitable light weight fabrics and you can order a pair to any length depending on your mood.

 

Shining at The Golden Shears

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The Golden Shears award is the country’s most prestigious tailoring competition taking place bi-annually at the great Merchant Taylors’ livery hall in the heart of London.

The competition was set up in 1974 and for the last twenty years has been focusing on the talents of trainee tailors and apprentices from all over the UK. It is a huge honour to be selected as one of the 24 finalists for the awards night. During the evening the tailored creations are presented in a professional catwalk show to a panel of the most highly regarded tailors and stylists. Marks are awarded for technical ability as well as for design flair. The students have to create a garment entirely on their own from the conception through to cutting and sewing and since the recent renaissance in tailoring the competition has become extraordinarily tough.

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This year Leisha Parlour a 20 year old South Londoner on a Bespoke Tailoring course at the London College of Fashion was very excited to use our reflective ‘Red Raver Wave‘ and ‘The Cyclist‘ fabric for her competition piece. She tailored a fabulous ladies trouser suit with bias cut patch pockets on both the jacket and trousers and other features such as pleated shoulders which enable maximum movement and comfort.

 

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Many of her friends are skateboarders inspiring Leisha to create what she describes as casual bespoke tailoring, taking elements from both baggy skater styles and classic tailoring. The beautifully tailored piece took months of work and received great praise at the event. Leisha has work experience booked with the Italian tailor Riedizione this summer and then another year of study before she would like to work as a cutter for a major fashion house. We wish her all the best!

All the very best,

The Dashing Team

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