Charlotte Chaplin: Health and Woolness

 

Wearing wool for health is not something we hear enough of these days. In the 1880’s the German physician Dr Gustav Jäger extolled the benefits of wearing wool next to the skin, rather than plant based yarns such as cotton or linen. His philosophy caught on to such an extent that the British business man Lew Tomalin established the eponymous brand. The resulting woollen underwear and swim suits he made proved such a success that a Royal Warrant was granted.

Fashion is a circular affair, at the moment with uncertainty in the air comfort can be had by glancing back and wondering what we can learn from the past to make life better both for our health and for that of the whole planet.

 

The rise of synthetics and the demise of woollen clothing, is a case in hand. Crude oil based clothing such as nylons, polyesters and acrylics were thought to be the answer to everything. They were cheap, easy to produce and seemed almost too good to be true yet now we are just beginning to realise their true cost on a global scale with micro plastics entering the food chain every time you wash a so called fleece. Sustainability is what is needed and there is nothing more sustainable than Herdwick Wool from The Lake District.

Charlotte Chaplin has around 500 of the indigenous sheep on her farm in Finsthwaite, Ulverston. The Herdwick breed has been around for hundreds of years and live in complete harmony with the natural habitat of the Lake District. With short stocky legs and an enviable fleece they roam easily over the steep hills grazing naturally on the local flora, taking just what they need without denuding the pastures. Interestingly they are born black and as they age they pass through chocolate tones on their way to almost pure white.

 

Charlotte starts to shear her ‘girls’ as she calls them at around 18 months just when the wool is turning white and the length is perfect for spinning. A local farmer Stephen helps with the shearing  and then the fleeces are sent off to Haworths for scouring. Charlotte is keen to keep the wool as natural as possible so there is no dying and the pure wool is just cleaned before spinning at Laxtons. From there the  yarns are sent to Townend weavers where Charlotte’s elegant and timeless herringbone designs are woven into cloth. The last stage is finishing and Charlotte uses our preferred company Schofields, they soften the hardy wool and make it eminently wearable.

 

In our Marylebone flagship shop we are stocking three of Charlotte’s designs all in the natural colours of the Herdwick wool. Touching the cloth evokes feelings of the healthy wild landscapes of the Lake District and just by wearing it I’m sure this will rub off on you. The cloth makes up into beautiful jackets and for the brave we can certainly follow Dr Jäger and tailor a health imbuing swimming outfit.

If you have any questions or would like to book a Made to Measure appointment using Charlotte’s designs, kindly drop an email here or visit us in store at 47 Dorset Street, Marylebone.

 

 

Woven in Time

It never ceases to amaze me how when it comes to technical and engineering solutions nature has got there first. The aerodynamic shapes of sycamore seeds or swift wings need only be copied for man to fly. The carbon fibre bodies of race cars are analogous to the chitin structure of beetle carapaces and bats were able to travel in darkness long before radars whined their first bleep. It will not surprise you then that nature found the best way to keep beasts warm and dry long before polluting plastic bottles evolved into so called fleeces.

Off the top of their head sheep have a way of outperforming any man made fibres especially when it comes to warmth, comfort, durability and eco friendliness. The only problem that man faces is getting it onto their own backsides. This has proved a very good test of our ingenuity and has take hundreds of years to perfect.

One of the best explanations of the process that I have ever seen was premiered last month at Australia House by the Campaign for Wool. Woven in Time tells the story of the rise of Merino wool use in Britain and the creation of the modern weaving industry as we know it today. The beautifully concise narration by Peter Ackroydtakes us through the 200 year history from a Yorkshire cottage industry through to the technical advancements of cloth now.

For anyone interested in clothing, history, industry and manufacturing this is a must see half an hour film and the best thing is you can watch it right now and enjoy!

All the very best,

The Dashing Team!

P.S – *SAVE THE DATE*

We are also planning an event to talk about the creativity behind Dashing Tweeds
on the 25th April! Stay tuned for more information on how to attend!

dashing tweeds, tweed, tweeds, menswear, tailoring, tailors, made to measure, bespoke, London, London tailors, Marylebone menswear, Marylebone tailors

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