This season we are doing what we love best, creating new bold colourful tweeds to be worn for shear pleasure. There are many aspects to the iconic tweed cloth, it is traditional sportswear for the country, the original camouflage, an emblem of family and estates, the natural homespun cloth of the British Isles and above all the choice of attire for enjoyment. Tweed, wool woven with a twill structure, is the cloth men have always chosen to express the colourful side of their nature. As soon as the working day is over it’s time to relax put on your favourite clothes and give attention to what you enjoy most. More people now live in towns than the country but that is not to say that tweed cannot be worn in town and our designs are specially adapted to an urban environment.
At the moment there is a fissure in mens style. On one side there is the whole world of traditional tailored clothes whose look is in essence unchanged for a hundred years and on the other there are designer fashions and street styles to keep up with. As fashion brands seek larger profits they have simplified the construction of garments and promoted ever more casual looks whilst exploring areas that add little cost to manufacturing such as colour and printing. The large profits enable huge amounts to be spent on advertising promoting the ‘cool’ of these cloths and often ironically the individuality that these mass produced garments impart. It’s hard not to be swayed by the fun of fashion trends but the key is to retain a sense of dignity and true individualism whilst still feeling part of a current movement. This is of course where Dashing comes in, we absorb the zeitgeist and weave the current stories for you in cloth enabling you to have the best of both worlds, clothes classically tailored yet fashionable and exuberant.
Orange is a popular colour this season in the most fashionable menswear collections and our Orange Overdrive is up there with the best. This vibrant Donegal wool tweed features a fabulously bold 3 inch orange check overlaying a smaller navy check on a ground of flecked neutral greys. At 24oz the cloth is ideal for an overcoat or warm sports jacket.
The Blue Overdrive a check in navy and dark turquoise blue against flecked brown Donegal wools is a luxuriant modern cloth in a traditional coating weight which at 24oz is rarely seen nowadays. The two shades of blue in the offset checks bounce off each other creating a playful juxtaposition pleasing to the eye yet striking.
Continuing with our theme of bold colourful checks the Rizzi check woven in a fine Merino suiting quality of 11 ozs uses all the colours of our collection in one design. The complex impozitsalariu.ro series of interconnecting checks against a black twilled background creates a very lively pattern featuring yellow, red, turquoise and coral lines forming an almost psychedelic tartan effect.
A calming influence on this seasons collection is made by the simple elegance of fine grey Merino wool woven with colour flecked Donegal wool yarns in both an uncomplicated stripe and check. The respectively name Straight Kink and Square Kink combine the texture of a country tweed with the finesse of an urban worsted cloth. The spacing of an inch on both the stripe and check make for a small scale that easily works with wardrobe stables and provides a fabric ideally suited to informal tailoring for town.
For evening wear we have worked with a famous Suffolk based mill to jacquard weave an electrifying take on a hounds tooth. The design in a 7oz cotton and silk mix features an enlarged scale graphic of a twilled houndstooth structure in a very dark navy subtly outlined with a glowing electric blue yarn giving a shimmering depth to the cloth. The crisp fabric tailors very well into a dinner suit and the light weight means that however heated the conversion gets you will always remain cool.
As a special offering we are including the work of one of Kirsty’s most talented students this season. Joe Whitbread was specially chosen by us amongst numerous graduates of the Royal College of Art. Under Kirsty’s tutorage Joe is blossoming as a weave designer and due to his sensitivity to colour and his craftsmanship on the loom we asked Joe to add two fabrics to this this seasons collections using yarn colours selected from our palette. The two designs in fine Merino wool and a tad of shimmering Lurex are technically very clever. The first design features stepped shapes in burnt orange, brown, turquoise and a kingfisher blue Lurex in a structure Joe calls a deflected double cloth. The second design is simpler with a fine rectangular grid of turquoise over broken stripes of orange shades against brown.
To round off our collection we have included takes on classic tweed structures using British wools. The gun club checks in the small regular squares characteristic of the design derived from the Scottish Coigach check and a version of a Glen Check. Our two gun clubs, the Chattanooga and Charleston come in at 14oz making them ideal for jackets or suits. The Charleston in grey, fawn and burgundy features a subtle blue overcheck and the Chattanooga reverses this with a predominately blue look and a burgundy overcheck.
Our Blue Glen Check uses brighter shades of blue than you would associate with original Glenurquhart checks in fact we took inspiration from the menswear shows in Florence at Pitti Uomo where men gather from around the world to peacock in suits of multiple iridescent hues. The fashionable shades of blue in this design look good for many occasions from smart day wear to relaxed evenings out.